Our Day 2 – Adventure Machu Picchu begins with a morning bus ride back to the citadel after an amazing buffet breakfast at Inkaterra. Today, we enter at the lower level for the circuit that is currently called the Royal Route (Circuit 3) and includes a hike up Huchuy Picchu. It’s another picture perfect day. Groups of tourists are scattered among the various terraces, but it isn’t overly crowded. Billowing puffy clouds frame Huchuy and Huayna peaks in the distance.
The Temple of the Sun and the Royal Tomb
Our first stop is at the Temple of the Sun. Its unique semi-circular structure make it unmistakable, and combined with the Royal Tomb beneath, it’s one of my favorites. The temple has two windows. One faces the sunrise at the Sun Gate on the Winter Solstice, and the other aligns with the Summer Solstice. These windows create rays of light within the tomb on these Inca sacred days. The Royal Tomb is below the temple. It’s a natural cave with an opening facing the east. By the time Hiram Bingham arrived here, the tomb was empty, but it may have once contained the remains of Inca rulers. It contains a large altar with two levels and a symbolic staircase carved into the rock. The three steps represent the three levels of existence in the Inca world. Three sacred animals represented each realm – the condor symbolized the celestial world, the serpent was linked to the world of the dead, and the puma represented the earthly realm.
As impressive as these were, I was eager to continue to the far end of the citadel and begin the hike up Huchuy Picchu. A small hut next to the Sacred Rock is the checkpoint for both Huchuy Picchu and Huayna Picchu. We signed in, made note of our individual numbers on the roster, and headed down the trail.
Hiking Huchuy Picchu
After a short hike, the trail diverges. Huchuy hikers take a fork to the left, on a relatively easy dirt path surrounded by ferns and greenery. It’s not long before the trail becomes steeper with uneven steps built by the Incas in the 15th century. Cables attached to the rock face are the only safety feature to help as I haul myself up the incline.
I had really wanted to climb Huayna Picchu, but an arthritic knee due to be replaced really made Huchuy Picchu a much more practical hike for me! The views on both sides are amazing, and I’m not disappointed with this hike. Agricultural terraces appear below us and we can see the winding bus road up to the citadel in the distance.
On the opposite side, we can see the Urubamba River far below.
A Panoramic View
From here we come to a rock out-cropping with all of Machu Picchu in a panoramic view below us. I am in awe, once again, with the enormity of the citadel and its isolation in these rugged, magnificent mountains.
Behind me now is the summit – only a short climb to the left, around some huge boulders.
We sit on the rocks to enjoy the views and soak in the magic of Machu Picchu.
More hikers soon arrive, so we relinquish our rocky perches. The hike down is easier on the lungs, but the steps down are harder on my knees and require some careful negotiating.
Soon we are back at the registration hut, and we call out our individual assigned numbers so the guards know we have safely made it down the mountain. We walk back along the lower terraces of the urban sector until we reach the Temple of the Condor.
Temple of the Condor
I think the Temple of the Condor is one of the most impressive sites here. The Inca stonemasons skillfully shaped a huge existing rock formation into the outspread wings of a condor in flight. On the floor of the temple, they carved a rock in the shape of the condor’s head and neck feathers, giving the impression of a three-dimensional bird. Historians believe that the head of the condor was used as a sacrificial altar or for other religious ceremonies. Under the temple is a small cave that contained a mummy. A prison complex stands directly behind the temple, and is comprised of human-sized niches and an underground maze of dungeons.
And then it’s time to walk across the agricultural terraces, with a final glimpse back at the ancient stone structures. It’s been a journey through time and nature, with unparalleled views of one of the world’s most iconic archaeological sites. This trip has been my third visit to Machu Picchu. Each time I’ve learned more and felt a deeper connection. Reflecting on today’s climb, the views, and the rich history of the Inca civilization, 5 years older than the previous visit, I feel a satisfying sense of accomplishment and enrichment.
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